July 26th-July 30th 2022

My original idea was to do an out-and-back from Onion Valley, over Kearsarge and Glen into Rae Lakes and Sixty Lakes Basin and back. However, going over Glen Pass twice in the same trip seemed ridiculous, and I would much rather make a loop over an out-and-back.

Gaia (my tried and true GPS navigation app) showed a route from Sixty Lakes Basin over Sixty Lakes col into Gardener Basin, where I can make a lollipop loop to Charlotte Lake over Kearsarge. Although there was a marked trail on Gaia, Sixty Lakes col and Gardener Basin is an x-country, meaning a completely off-trail route, and I most likely would be navigating through some very rough terrain. I searched through plenty of topo maps to get a good feel for this terrain. The internet did not provide that much beta on this route, and some of the authors didn't seem very experienced. One guy mentioned how he saw a bear at Gardener Lake and went into his tent to get his bear spray to "teach the bear a lesson".

Bear spray is illegal in this area. I don’t event know where to buy bear spray. I think if I saw someone with bear spray, I would absolutely lose my mind and try to spray the person. You can literally tell bears to “go away” around here and they will. Don’t be that guy with bear spray.

I quickly gave up on reading these people's beta and figured I had plenty of backcountry experience, and I would do the best I could with my topo maps and route finding skills. For reference, I took a screenshot of Elizabeth's comment regarding going over 60 Lakes col as she seemed to know what she was talking about.

https://www.highsierratopix.com/community/viewtopic.php?t=11444

For folks wondering, the definition of col is the lowest point of a ridge or saddle between two peaks, typically affording a pass from one side of a mountain range to another.

My itinerary was planned for five nights, and six days with a fun little day trip to Baxter Lake, averaging 15ish miles each day.
This was an intentional solo trip without my dogs.
My total pack weight, including 1.5 liters of water, was 34 pounds.
The weather was calling for thunderstorms in the afternoon, with less than 0.2 inches of precipitation each day, so I brought my pack cover, tent fly, and an emergency poncho.

My planned route was over Kearsarge and Glen to Baxter Lake to Sixty Lakes Basin over Sixty Lakes col into Gardener Lakes Basin. The approach from over 60 Lakes col from the East into Gardener Lakes Basin seemed much more reasonable and the same for Gardener Pass. I initially planned to go the other direction. Still, after looking at the topo map, listening to my gut feeling, and reading Elizabeth's comment, I decided to change my route direction, AND I AM SO GLAD I DID.

Day 1: Onion Valley to Middle Rae Lake

I got a late start getting to the trailhead, so I did not start hiking until 10:30 am, and clouds were already building as soon as I stepped on the trail. It began to rain as I was nearing Heart Lake, so I took out my pack cover and poncho and ducked under some trees to wait out the thunder and lightning. I did not want to get up above the treeline in the middle of a storm, and thankfully it quickly dissipated, and I made a fast go over Kearsarge Pass onto the JMT towards Glen Pass. I was feeling good, so I decided to make it up and over Glen Pass late afternoon and set up camp at Middle Rae Lake. Glen Pass is one of the most challenging passes on the JMT, but it is not terrible and the views are incredible, and coming down into Rae Lakes Basin is jaw-dropping. Rae Lakes Basin can get pretty crowded as there are a few ways to access this basin, and it is stunning, so I didn't want to spend more than one night camping here and did not want to camp here over a weekend. Thankfully it was a Tuesday, and I easily found a spot to set up my tent as I rolled into camp around 6 pm.

Day 2: Middle Rae Lake to Baxter Lake

Meandering through the Rake Lakes Basin on the way to the Baxter Lake turn-off in the early morning was stunning. It was nice and cool with some cloud cover, minimal people on trail, very easy and flat terrain with some of the most spectacular alpine lakes and reflections. I soaked up every step of my short 3ish-mile walk. I made a right towards Baxter Lake at the turn-off from the JMT, and the signs said "minimally maintained trail," which it was. Although there was a trail in some parts, it was also a mix of route finding and following trail cairns. On the way up, I definitely scrambled over a decent-sized boulder and talus field (but the next day, I noticed there was a trail if you looked for it). Unfortunately, the clouds were quickly building, and getting up and over into the Baxter Lake Basin took me longer than anticipated due to the terrain and some route finding.

After approaching the first lake, I set up camp as I was only about a mile and change from Baxter Lake, so I figured I make the short walk to the lake and back to my tent in the afternoon without my heavy load while also reducing my miles the next day. Baxter Lake was stunning, and not one person was in the area. A few years ago, I attempted Baxter Pass from the other side (Baxter TH) with a partner, and we quickly got cliffed out and turned around. Looking back on that trip, it was a very wise decision for many reasons. Nonetheless, I was thrilled to be finally soaking up the beauty of Baxter Lake. The clouds kept building, and sure enough, the sky opened up. I quickly hunkered down under some trees and made my way back to my tent between claps of thunder, taking shelter under trees at each clap of thunder and running under the next batch of trees as the thunder dissipated. Of course, I didn't fully enclose my rain fly, so my sleeping bag and pad were soaked from the rain. Thankfully it was not that humid, and the rain stopped so that I could dry everything out. Day two...second thunderstorm; not yet a pattern, but I was taking mental notes.

Day 3: Baxter Lake to Sixty Lakes Basin

Hiking down from my camp in the Baxter Lake area to hit the JMT was much easier than hiking up, primarily because I found and followed the "trail" almost the entire way and avoided the talus and boulder field. Once I hit the JMT to head back towards Middle Rae Lake it was smooth sailing. I made a pour-over coffee along the way and leisurely sipped my coffee while enjoying the easy JMT miles through the lakes. I made the turn off the JMT towards 60 Lakes Basin and was surprised at the steep ascent. Finally, I got to my final destination, a narrow, long lake at 10,837 elevation with stunning views of Mt. Cotter. The lake is easy to navigate from the main 60 lakes trail as you make a left off the main trail and follow the creek drainage. There is a stunning campsite at the north end, steps from the west side of the lake where you begin the trek towards the col. I filtered water, took a quick dip in the lake, shoved a bunch of calories into my mouth, and set up my tent just in time for a strong, brutal downpour of rain and some very loud thunder that traveled directly above me. Day three, storm number three; officially a pattern. The storm lasted about 2 hours, and the sun came out and gave way to one of the most beautiful lake reflections of Mount Cotter. I stretched, practiced yoga, and took a good, long look at my route for tomorrow morning. I was a bit nervous going over the col as I knew more weather was coming in. I could get into some tricky class 3 stuff and wasn't really sure what to expect. Day 3 was by far my favorite and easiest day of hiking on this trip.

Day 4: 60 Lakes col to the dark bottom hell of Gardener Lakes Basin

I woke up early, packed, and was on my way by 7:30 am to make sure I could safely get over the col before the storm rolled in without rushing. I started around the west side of lake 10,837, and to my surprise, I felt strong, and the route was relatively easy with ample cairns along the way. It became a solid class two, and even though I felt like I was always going to get cliffed out, somehow the route just went. As I made my way toward the last big "fjord", I got into a challenging class 3 move which forced me to take off my pack, squeeze myself in between two big talus rocks, lift my pack up and over, and pull myself up. It was hard, but somehow it went. As I got higher and higher and crossed over the inlet of lake 10,837, I got a good solid view of the col. The route turned into granite slabs, and I remember Elizabeth's comment about keeping to the left in the bowl of Mt. Cotter. If you veer right and immediately towards the col there are some huge boulders and cliffs that do not go. I stayed left, taking my time and looking at each of my next moves, as I slowly made my way up and over. This route up was not that tricky if you stay all the way toward the left until you have to ascend over the col. I had to zig-zag a bit to get to the col, but I did not hit any dead ends going this way. I got myself into two tricky class 3 moves, but it went, and I felt strong throughout the climb. Once over the col, the clouds darkened and continued to build, and there was a stunning view over Gardner Lakes Basin. However, downclimbing into this basin was not fun. It mainly consisted of downclimbing huge boulders all class two with one or two class three moves.

I again had to take off my big pack and maneuver my body into some circus-like move to get where I wanted to go. I stayed as far right the whole time going down into the North/ right side of Gardner Lake as I was told this was the easiest route, and after doing it, I believe this is true; however, it still sucks. I finally got down from those awful boulders and noticed how extensive the talus/boulder field is around Gardener Lake. The shoreline of Gardener Lake is vast, and although the talus hopping was not difficult, it was a slog, and the weather was definitely turning. I still took my time as falling on talus is not ideal. I finally made it around that lake and headed towards the "trail". I quickly set up my tent at the first crack of thunder and waited for the sky to open, but nothing happened. I filtered water, ate a bunch of calories, sat there, and waited. Finally, the sun came out; I broke down my tent and started back on the "trail" as it was way too early to camp, and I had way too many miles to go.

After leaving the Gardener Lakes Basin area, it's a completely hot, humid, muddy, swampy, buggy nightmare of a slog. There is no trail and very few cairns, so you must rely on your cross-country navigation skills to get you anywhere. I got stuck in a pretty bad thunderstorm on a trail and took shelter under some trees. I bushwhacked through some deep, thick forests up to my shoulders to the point, my legs were bleeding. I was officially miserable and wanted to get the hell out of this shithole. There were tons of water crossings and I relied on my topo maps to figure out where to cross. This went on for hours and hours. I checked the weather to notice a massive storm coming in Sunday morning, the day I was supposed to exit. It was Friday evening. I thought to myself, "storms don't roll in early in the mornings in the Sierra". It was also calling for an inch of rain. I sent a message through my Garmin to one of my backcountry partners asking for the NOAA report. He sent me the report and within a couple of hours, sent me another message saying the storm was getting stronger and to get out as soon as I can.

I thought to myself, "I am so fucked”, but I somehow need to get to my car by tomorrow night, so I can miss whatever the hell is coming my way. I even went so far as to send a message through my Garmin to my dog boarders and my boss stating I am not sure as to when I will be back since this terrain is a nightmare and I am walking into one of the biggest summer storms I have ever seen in the Sierra. I walked as far as I physically could before nightfall, managed to find a good camping area near running water, set up my tent, and mentally prepared myself for what I was getting into the next day. I was nervous and exhausted and honestly had no idea what the outcome would be at this point. I prayed a lot that night.

At the top of 60 Lakes col looking towards Sixty Lakes Basin

Day 5 Garner Lakes Basin Hell to Kearsarge Pass via Gardener Pass

The following day I was on trail by 6:30 am as I knew I had a long, hard day ahead of me, and I wanted to get out a day early to avoid this "monsoon". My friends were sending me messages through my Garmin about the weather in the Sierra, and my brother told me a "monsoon" was coming my way…. I was like, yeahhhh…. I am trying my best to get to my car in one piece.

The day started with some ridiculous 700-foot climb over steep loose rocky terrain where I was literally pulling myself up on my belly while grasping onto tree roots. This was the only moment where I was unsure whether I was actually going to be able to hike out.

"What the fuck is this shit" I kept saying to myself.

It was a complete dumpster fire.

I went through valley after valley, lake basin after lake basin as I neared Gardener Pass. The only decent thing about this day was that there was not a cloud in the sky. So I had a good long weather window to get the fuck off whatever it was that I was on.

As I approached Gardener Pass, I was a bit confused about which "pass" I was to go over since there were a couple of rock chutes around me. No way was one of these rock chutes the pass, no way. I looked at my map, looked up at the steep boulder chute in front of me, back at my map and I thought to myself, "what in the literal fuck is this"?

Gardner Pass from this side was not a pass. It was a 500-foot steep boulder chute. It was mainly class 2 if you kept to the left but if you veered right, you could easily get into some class 3. I didn't want to go up it. I was exhausted, my body hurt, my poor legs were beaten and bruised, but I also refused to turn around and go back to the deep depths of hell where I came from.

I chugged some water, ate a bunch of calories, prayed, and told myself to be patient, be smart and do not rush as I started up the boulder chute. Although it was a slog and seemed like it took forever, it technically was not as difficult as it seemed. It maybe would have been fun if I wasn't so exhausted and didn't have to slog through the deep dark depths of hell the day before. If it was an isolated chute, let's say by Rae Lakes Basin, it maybe would have been fun. Finally, I got over the boulder chute to reach a sandy, dry, hot path down ...." ahh this is the remnant of a 'pass' and going up this would be literal hell", I thought to myself. I am so glad I went over the boulder chute and down the sandy, steep, hot slog rather than going the opposite direction. Although there is sort of a faint trail on the other side towards Charlotte Dome, the trail from the Gardener Lakes Basin where I came from did not have a trail, but it does go.

Once I got down this sandy slog, I came across the hugely dense forest of downed dead trees, I literally had to climb over. There was a wash that I followed at one point to go around it but it did not go all the way around so eventually I had to just climb through all the dead, downed trees. It was another miserable obstacle to my car. This miserable shit kept going on forever, one miserable thing after another.

Hours later, I realized I was actually making my way toward Charlotte Lake. I could not believe it. I looked at my map and told myself, "even if I have to climb over Kearsarge Pass at night in a storm, I am getting back to my car". Once I reached the Charlotte Dome area, a trail appeared, the first signs of a trail I saw in two days. I was elated. I moved fast down that slog of a trail in the dry dirt until I reached Charlotte Lake, nearly running towards Kearsarge Pass. I told a couple people on the trail about this incoming storm, and they looked at me as if I had 5 heads and asked me "how I knew that information", as my satellite phone hung from my chest strap. I told them I have been getting messages through Garmin In Reach and basically people will be stuck in their tents for two days with inches of rain and at risk of hypothermia.

They said "well it was only a 30% chance of rain, and we checked the weather before we headed out on this trip".

I said "in the Sierra, a 30% chance of rain is 110% percent". They asked how I knew that.

I went on my way. If people want to get hypothermia and have to get rescued by SAR after being warned, that is totally on them. I later learned that 16 hikers activated their SOS the first day of the mega storm and dozens of hikers were stranded in their flooded tents for two days, not to mention the roads to the trailheads were closed for four days due to heavy rain and debris.

I've learned after many years, many trials and errors to always listen to my gut, respect Mother Nature, and pay attention to weather patterns. I have learned to trust my gut on the trail; it is almost always right.

As I was nearing the turn-off towards Kearsarge Lake, I knew I basically made it and I could go as fast as I wanted. The clouds were building, it was nearing about 4 pm, and I was on mile 15 of the day and had about seven more to go, but I didn't care as I was so happy to be on a trail, out of death's doorstep. I made it to my car by 7 pm before the storm came in and was greeted by a couple of young bucks about a mile from my car. I drove into Bishop, ate 3,000 calories worth of fast food, and was delighted I was off trail and safe.

My gut on trail is always right

The next day, the storm rolled in, the roads closed and it rained for nearly 8 days straight. I canceled my next backpacking trip until the weather cleared (almost 2 weeks later).

I finally splurged and ordered a re-usable Sea to Summit rain poncho. Although I love my pink emergency trash bag with holes in it and it has saved me from hypothermia multiple times, this trip proved that I needed to step up my rain gear. Note: I am not a fan of rain jackets or pants on trail in the Sierra as I find them constricting and not enough coverage. I do own a set for other terrain, but I much prefer ponchos that go over my pack.

I was supposed to get back on trail the next day for another epic adventure but it got postponed for a couple weeks. I cannot wait to write about this adventure as it was one for the books, (with my little dog Taquito and I).

Thanks for reading and happy adventures!

Kristen