Moo in my pack after a morning of breaking trail on skis.
"I prefer winter and fall when you feel the bone structure of the landscape--the loneliness of it, the dead feeling of winter. Something waits beneath it; the whole story doesn't show”.
--Andrew Wyeth
Winter is here! This means lots of skiing, winter mountaineering, shoveling snow, scraping windshields, longer nights, colder temps, shorter days, living in a snow globe, fighting with seasonal affective disorder, building snowmen (the cairns of winter), making snow angels, drinking a hot toddy (or two), warm nights by the fire, and lugging 40-pound bags of wood pellets up my stairs. I love winter, but it also is a lot of work to live full-time in the snow. You really have to be committed to adventuring outside and soaking up those few hours of daylight, or else winter may get the best of you. I even forced myself to purchase a 4WD ginormous gas-guzzling SUV so I could safely drive around in the snow without the bother of chains. I am fully committed to living in a ski town.
"My tail's froze, and my nose is froze and my ears are froze, and my toes are froze."
-- 101 Dalmatians
Personally, I have to actively make myself get outside EVERY SINGLE DAY, or else I become depressed and moody. I have embraced putting on warm clothes and winter boots multiple times a day to take my dog outside, even in frigid cold temperatures. I make myself get on skis at least 3-4 times a week and try my best to catch a magical winter sunrise or sunset once every couple of weeks. I have even taken up long runs in the snow….
There are some days when Moo, my 13-pound terrier mix, takes a peek outside and runs right back upstairs. Some days, I do the same as well.
Last year, I wrote an extensive blog post on adventuring in the winter that included a plethora of resources, including information about frostbite, hypothermia, winter gear, and safety precautions. This year I wrote a second rendition of the same blog post but with a more personal touch. I wanted to include my favorite winter trails in the Sierra and my favorite winter gear that I wear regularly. I linked last year’s post here for additional reading.
"No winter lasts forever; no spring skips its turn."
--Hal Borland
My favorite XC ski/snowshoe trails
One of the reasons why I moved to Mammoth was because of the endless cross-country ski trails. Many of the roads are closed to cars and are only accessible on skis or snowshoes, which makes this a winter wonderland with so many more miles to explore. These are just a few of my favorites with others, including Minaret Vista and the Inyo Craters on the Mammoth Scenic Loop. As always, it is essential to check with Caltrans for road conditions to determine if chains are required during or after major storms. Also, be aware that many of these unplowed roads and trails may allow snowmobiles. I make sure to keep one earbud out and my dog in my pack if I know a trail or road is popular for these sleds (Mosquito Flats and Inyo Craters).
Tamarack XC ski center
Located in the Mammoth Lakes Basin, this is my favorite XC ski course in the U.S. and lucky for me; it is 10 minutes from my house. This winter wonderland has 19 miles of groomed trails for class and skate skiers and also has a non-Tamarack pass trail (on the left) on Lake Mary Road that allows you to snowshoes, walk, and run with your dog (must be leashed) for FREE.
Shady Rest Park
This dog-friendly area has about five miles of groomed XC ski trails, and it is free to the public. These trails are multi-use, and they do not groom as frequently as Tamarack, so the ski tracks tend to become a little beat up pretty fast. However, it is fun to go for a quick ski with Moo in the mornings or afternoons.
June Lake Loop
A few miles past the Double Eagle Resort on Highway 158, the road is closed during winter months. Park at this gate then follow the closed road for gorgeous views of Silver Lake and Carson Peak. Cross-country skiing and snowshoeing are ideal on this easy flat route.
Obsidian Dome
Some of the easiest and quickest trails are at Obsidian Dome. From June Lake head south on Highway 395 (towards Mammoth). After about six miles, you will see the Obsidian Dome parking lot on your right. There are many different trails and loops, so pick your route at the posted trail map. Most areas are flat and rolling, perfect for beginners.
Lake Sabrina
Take the road from Bishop to Aspendell and park alongside the road at the closure. You can ski or snowshoe the road up to Lake Sabrina, and once the lake is frozen over, you can even make your way up to Blue Lake. This is an excellent spot to camp once the lake is frozen over.
McGee Creek
Located a few miles south of Mammoth and great for skiing or snowshoeing.
Mosquito flats (Rock Creek)
Ski or snowshoe the four miles to the trailhead and marvel at all of the frozen lakes. This is a great place to camp overnight in the winter as well.
"Welcome, winter. Your late dawns and chilled breath make me lazy, but I love you nonetheless. "
--Terri Guillemets
“There's just something beautiful about walking on snow that nobody else has walked on”
Check the weather
Checking the weather for snow conditions, wind, snow levels, and avalanche risk is super important. I always check NOAA and Mountain Forecast. Weather can change on a dime, so again, refrain from asking about mountain conditions on social media, it is silly and dangerous.
Winter safety and mountaineering courses
I genuinely believe that going into the backcountry during the winter requires a skillset, the proper gear, and a lot of knowledge. Unless you have a tried and true experienced winter mountaineering friend who can teach you everything there is to know, I highly recommend you take a winter course. There is a surplus of winter courses that range from Avalanche training and winter mountaineering to winter camping and crevasse rescue and glacier travel. REI also offers a great classroom introduction to winter camping, but for more backcountry skills, I recommend the following companies:
To appreciate the beauty of a snowflake it is necessary to stand out in the cold.
Winter traction devices
Microspikes are not crampons, but yet so many people interchange these devices on the trails. Ice axes do not pair with microspikes, ice axes pair with crampons. If you don’t know the difference or understand which terrain is indicated for which traction device, that probably means you have some research and training to do. Mainly because wearing crampons without any proper training or wearing microspikes in the wrong conditions can cost you your life.
“And into the forest I go, to lose my mind and find my soul”
― John Muir
Snowshoes vs. spikes vs. crampons vs. XC skis
This is how I summarize the use of these winter traction devices:
Snowshoes: Fresh powder to avoid post-holing
Microspikes: Very flat ice, mainly for long winter runs or to walk out of my driveway to scrape ice off my car in the morning.
Crampons: Mountain icy inclines (with a helmet and ice ax and training)
XC skis: All of the above all mixed together.
A more in-depth- description
Microspikes: these mini traction devices are best worn on reasonably level, aka flat hiking trails covered with packed snow or ice. They provide that little bit of extra traction that you need when your boot treads stop giving you good traction. They should not be used in deep fresh powder or on steep inclines
Snowshoes: So my biggest pet peeve is watching people snowshoe on packed hard snow. Snowshoes are primarily used to prevent post-holing, which occurs in either fresh deep snow or melting deep snow. Basically, the snow is not packed down. Snowshoes resemble tennis rackets as they have a lot of surface area to prevent you from constantly sinking into the snow. Multiple types of snowshoes can be used for different terrain including flat terrain, rolling hills, and mountain terrain. The steeper the terrain, the more teeth, and traction these devices provide.
Crampons: these 10 or 12 teeth traction devices are best used in ice or firm snow on steep inclines. Crampons require the use of an ice ax, and you should always wear a helmet if your plan to mountaineer. You should also take a proper winter mountaineering course if you plan on adventuring in crampons as it is important to learn how to use crampons properly and know how to self-arrest with an ice ax, glissade (without crampons on) and be prepared for avalanche territory. I personally believe too many people are using crampons and axes without training and are making the poor folks at SAR run around with their heads cut off while risking their lives. Please use the proper gear with the appropriate training in the proper settings.
Cross country skis: these are fun for flat areas and rolling hills and can be used in deep snow, packed snow, or even on ice. Breaking trail and skiing uphill are some of the harshest winter workouts you can endure. XC skiing is not technically challenging, but it is one of the most physically demanding winter sports.
“A lot of people like snow. I find it to be an unnecessary freezing of water.”
― Carl Reiner
Traveling in winter conditions
Please don’t be that person who is sliding around in their 2WD car without chains, who has a 4WD vehicle but no snow tires or who puts chains on the wrong tires. Not only do you look ridiculous, but also you are breaking the law and endangering your life and the lives of others. If you cannot figure out the chain restrictions, then walk, ski, take the bus or stay home and wait for the roads to clear.
For road closures and chain requirements, always check Caltrans. If you have a front-wheel-drive car, your chains go on the FRONT TWO tires. If you have rear-wheel drive care, your chains go on the REAR TWO tires. If your vehicle is 4WD, then install chains on all FOUR tires. Look on your tires to determine the width, height ratio, and diameter and be sure to purchase the correct size chains. If you do not know, then take a picture of the three numbers on your tire and ask for help. Understand the difference between R1 vs. R2 vs. R3 chain restrictions. Here is a tutorial for how to put chains on your car.
R1: Chains are required - snow tread tires allowed.
R2: Chains are required on all vehicles except four-wheel-drive vehicles with snow tires on all four wheels.
R3: Chains are required - all vehicles - no exceptions.
R1 and R2 are the most common conditions. The highway is usually closed before an R3 condition is imposed.
Always check Caltrans for road conditions, please do not rely on social media.
“Snowflakes are one of nature's most fragile things, but just look what they can do when they stick together”.
“Life is not about waiting for the storm to pass, it is about dancing in the snow”
My favorite winter gear
I try to buy most of my gear on sale as paying full price, in my opinion, is throwing your hard-earned money out the window. I usually take my time and shop around, scrounge through the clearance racks and often visit used gear stores or thrift stores. I actually dedicated an entire blog post to this topic.
I also prefer bright colors and mismatched patterns, which tend to go on sale more often than the other boring solid colors. If I do pay full price for something, it is because I bought it locally in Mammoth, knowing that I am supporting small businesses here in town. Everyone is different; that is my two cents on how to acquire good quality outdoor gear without breaking the bank.
I probably have acquired two dressers stuffed to the brim of quality outdoor gear, but below are my favorite cold weather apparel items that have gotten me through my share of freezing rain, snow, ice, and frigid temperatures.
“A pile of fur and snow and lots of love”
Waterproof pants: Women’s PreCip Eco Full-Zip Pants by Marmot
Lightweight puffy (NOT puffer): Women’s Nano Puff by Patagonia
Heavy puffy (NOT puffer): Women’s Cirque Down Jacket by The North Face
Fleece zip-up jackets by The North Face (my collection ranges from lightweight and mid-weight to heavy)
Base layers by Kari Traa
As a side note, Kari Traa is, by far, my new favorite brand. I recently discovered Kari Traa this past fall while desperately searching for lightweight, warm, and comfortable base layers, preferably that were made for women by women. Kari Traa is an Olympic skier who struggled to find quality made female base layers, so she created her line. Her sizes encompass all body types and range from XS- 4 XL, and they are affordable.
Heavy base layer: Heavy Dri-FIT turtle neck by Nike (no longer available)
Glacier glasses: Vermont glacier glasses by Julbo
Oakley custom sunglasses (kindly gifted by Tecnu Outdoors)
XC ski/running pants: Smartwool Women’s Merino Sport Fleece Wind Tights
I believe that Smartwool makes quality gear, but they are SO expensive, even on sale. I cannot bring myself to swallow their high price tags, but these pants were worth every penny. In all honesty, I still paid $100 for them (yikes) even though they were original $140, but I have skied and ran in them at least 12 times in 15-30 degree temperatures, and not only was I warm but they are super comfortable.
Cold weather ear band: Smartwool Merino 240 Reversible Pattern Headband (I prefer ear bands over beanies especially if I am doing high-intensity cold-weather activities)
Winter socks: Smartwool Women’s Ph.D. Ski Medium Pattern Socks and Stance Merino Wool Ski Socks
Mountaineering gloves: Women’s Montana GORE-TEX Insulated Gloves by The North Face
Glove liners (for cold weather running and XC skiing): Women’s Versaliner Sensor Gloves with shell by Outdoor Research
I also have some crazy fun ski masks and balaclava masks for when it gets frigid cold
Winter hat: Transcendent Down Beanie by Outdoor Research
Buff: Lightweight Merino Wool Buff (I wore this for 13 days straight on my Everest Basecamp trek)
Snow gaiters: Women’s Crocodile Gaiters by Outdoor Research (of course in bright orange and turquoise).
Boots: La Sportiva Trango Tech GTX Women’s Mountaineering Boots
Microspikes: Hillsound trail crampons (they are microspikes, and I am slightly irritated that they have the word “crampons” in their name, huge misnomer but great trail running traction devices).
Ice ax: Corsa aluminum by CAMP (super lightweight and GREEN also not for ice climbing)
Crampons: XLC 470 Semi-Auto by CAMP (super lightweight and GREEN also not for ice climbing)
Snowshoes: Revo Ascent M22 Snowshoes by MSR
Avalanche package (beacon, shovel, and probe) by Backcountry Access
“When snow falls, nature listens”.
For a more detailed guide on winter gear and layering in general, I included my past blog post The Ten Essentials for Women in the Outdoors: Insulation
Thanks for reading and happy winter adventuring
Xx
Kristen